Friday, July 6, 2012

Surf's up

Ever since I can remember, my fondest memories of the summer are engulfed by the ocean. Whether it was body surfing with my bros, beach bonfires with the family, summer whale watching trips with school-mates, ditching high school in my friend's jeep and heading out for a beach day- 
(I don't endorse that..but it was really fun)
 -camping with my entire extended family on the beaches of San Diego, San Clemente, even Ensenada Mexico, summer always revolved around time by the ocean.

My childhood and teen years were always filled by the sea. 

It wasn't until later in my life that I discovered surfing. Surfing is a rush that is so hard to explain. On one hand you have the immense power and enormity of the waves and the ocean, the slight but constant tinge of fear of the unknown and the peace and calm and quiet in between sets (of waves). It's in these contrasting moments that one can really appreciate and respect the beauty and power of God's creation. To simply sit on your board looking out into the vastness of the expanse of water before you is an overwhelming emotional experience in itself. Either that or I'm on my man period, in which case everything is hyper sensitive and emotional, yo!

I love taking time out of my schedule to go surfing with someone close to me.  Not just anyone but someone who can truly take in the full gravity of the experience and most importantly probably someone who will not annoy the life out of me. hahaha

But let's be real...I'm not gonna sit here and pretend that the entirety of my surf trips consist of me crying and staring into the horizon. In fact a majority of the time is spent laughing and joking around and eating and snacking and sometimes fighting but mostly laughing. Oh, and also falling. 

Lots of falling.  -__- 

But I don't mind because it keeps me humble. 

The ocean has a way of doing that.  

Just when you think you are big and bad,  there is always that one swell that totally wipes you out and makes you do cartwheels underwater straight into the sand. 

I once heard a quote that said "no matter how important you may think you are, you are never more important than the ocean".  It is so true and I believe it is something that more people need to realize. There are always things that will be bigger and better and more powerful than you. It's up to you do find the beauty in them and to use those things to make yourself better.  

Open yourself up to humbling will be surprised by what you can learn.  

'Til later, friends.

ttyl beijos tchau, 


Boards all secure and packed up ready to head down to the shore.

Always in good company, my white "Latin heart-ed" sista Lauren A.K.A Larry.

Larry with her long board.

Can't wait to hit the waves.

Our drink of choice 'cause we're cray cray like that...

I must say...I dig beach hair, even if it just frizzes up and gets in my face/mouth. haha

Note: all images are taken and owned by  Jeshua Viveiros and

No comments:

Post a Comment

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...